The Jerusalem Archeology Park

We knew the archeological park would take a day, so we settled into the site to really enjoy what the Antiquities Authority has uncovered so far, next to the temple mount.

Not in any particular order, we walked through both temple periods. The first temple was built by King Solomon, and actual walls fortified by King David, as well as parts of his palace have been uncovered, leading up to the first temple period.

We also saw the Huldah Gate, long since bricked in, the remnants of a magnificent arch built by King Herod in the second temple period, and the promonade of ancient storefronts.

Outside the original Jebusite wall of antiquity is another wall built by Suleiman the Great, the Ottoman Sultan who conquered Jerusalem and rebuilt the Dome of the Rock to what it appears today.

We climbed up the steep staircase to the rim inside the wall built for the guards and archers who defended the Ottoman Empire's capitol. Walking along the rim gave us a magnificent panoramic view of the city.

Our climb back down brought is into an in-between place, with great stones from the second temple period giving way to far older stones from the first temple period. Just then a tenor so pure it was like the music of an oboe sang from a minaret calling all Muslims to prayer. Haunting and beautiful. Then another voice sang from a nearer minaret, and finally a third oboe began his melody in a minor key from the great mosque on the temple mount.

We were caught up in the uniqueness of this world, the faint sound of the shofar by the Jewish Wailing Wall, the minarets' call to Muslim prayer, and two Christians reveling in God's presence here.

Right next to the archeological park is a building dedicated to the rebuilding of the temple. Though we didn't go inside, we did climb to their roof where a replica of Herod ' s temple stands right across from the Dome of the Rock. We were reminded of the first stone we saw as we entered the archeological park, marble from the temple that had been thrown down in fury by Roman soldiers in 70 A.D., with the inscription, "To the trumpeters..."

Afterwards we walked through the narrow limestone cobbled streets of the Old City and had shawarma and juice in the Jewish Quarter--mango for me, strawberry and banana for Dave. Later we walked from stall to stall along King David Street which divides the Muslim, Jewish, and Christian quarters, and haggle till we were weary over Bedouin embroidered rugs.

We ended our day with an American couple,  friends if friends, who are going to the University on a visa. They told us about how frightening it was to have lived through the last three years of terrorism, and yet how much they love their life here.

The West Wall and Jericho

Our day began at the Western Wall of the temple mount, where Jews come daily to pray (the women have one part of the wall, then a wall separates them for the section given to the men). We watched a Bar Mitzvah take place, with the women standing on chairs to peek over the wall.

After the Seven Day War in 1967, the Hebrew Antiquities Authority drew together a team of archeologists to excavate by the western wall. Part of their excavation was to create a tunnel which covers the expanse of that wall at the level of King Herod ' s time (the Second Temple period).

We took a picture of our feet walking on the original street, paved in limestone, that existed two thousand years ago.

It was a powerful experience to touch that ancient wall, and to be near the spiritual fervor of those praying.

Afterwards we met up with Yusuf, who took us back to the West Bank, this time to the oldest city in the world--10,000 years of human habitation--Jericho, which is under the governance  of the Palestinian National Authority.

We began with a cable car ride up to the Church of the Temptation which is set among a series of caves where reportedly Jesus spent 40 days fasting, and being tempted by Satan. It seemed somehow fitting to visit here during Ramadan, when all the Muslims in Israel are fasting daily for thirty days.

This area is well below sea level, where the sun is intensely hot. Under that blazing sun we climbed about a million (possibly I'm exaggerating), stone steps to reach the church.

There is a cross etched into the stone where Jesus was said to have been ministered to by angels when His ordeal was completed.

Afterwards we visited the excavation site of the original Jericho, and saw a short film clip describing the many eras between Neolithic humankind, where agriculture, the domestication of animals, and pottery were all invented, through the bronze and iron ages, Joshua, the time of the Judges, the kings of Israel, through to today. This is the Fertile Crescent, cradle of humanity.

Afterwards Yusuf took us to a wonderful Arabic restaurant where we feasted on all kinds of salads, and drank lemonade mixed with fresh, crushed mint leaves.

Next we drove past an ancient sycamore tree up which Zaccheus is said to have climbed in order to see Jesus.

Then we drove through a military wasteland in order to reach the River Jordan, to the spot where Jesus was reportedly baptized. Dave and I each dipped our hands in the water to wet each others' heads with a blessing.

We took a picture of Yusuf, prayed for him and thanked him for two amazing, wonderful days.

Our last treat of the day was to observe Jupiter and Venus aligning over the roof of our hotel. This alignment is possibly the astronomical phenomenon which drew the magi of old to Bethlehem.

An Unexpected Adventure

Our day began with Dave and I puzzling over our map of Jerusalem, trying to find out how to get to the City of David.

Now, to get the picture straight in your mind, think about D.C. traffic...to the 10th power. Now imagine all that traffic in a little town like Annapolis, with its narrow roads. Add passionate Mediterraneans intent on getting to where they're going by any means possible. Any. Means. Possible.

Yes.

Now add two befuddled tourists.

So a guy calls out to us, "Hey, where are you going?" And we met Yusuf, an Arab Christian, born in Jerusalem, who acts as a tour guide. He took us places we never thought of going!

First we went to the Church of the Ascension, and saw the stone traditionally attributed to where Jesus rose up into heaven.

Next was a panoramic view of the temple mount where we saw the Dome of the Rock, and the beautiful Church of Mary Magdalena. And Absolom's tomb!

As we came down the hill we went to the Church of the Pater Noster where Jesus is said to have looked out over Jerusalem and prayed about His longing to gather them as chicks under His wings. The stone where he stood praying has a cross chiseled into it marking the place where, if you look just right, the cross of the Pater Noster and the cross on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre align.

Next was a trip to the Garden of Gethsemane with a 2,000 year old, living olive tree. Inside the Church of the Agony, right next door, was a great limestone rock traditionally seen as the place where Jesus prayed.

Then off we went to the West Bank, through the Arab/Israeli checkpoint to see Bethlehem. While there we visited a Greek Orthodox church built over the traditional site of Jesus' birth. The 'Smiling Madonna' is uniquely associated with Bethlehem because it's where Jesus was born. The 'Sad Madonna' is associated specifically with Jerusalem because that's where Jesus died.

During an earthquake some of the paving stones were tumbled around and a much more ancient church with lovely mosaics was revealed underneath the current building.

Next was the Church of the Nativity where the yearly Christmas service is broadcast around the world. Dave stood next to the depiction of King David in bronze of Jesus' family tree.

Afterwards we went to the Shepherds' Cave, where it is said the angels sang 'Peace to All People,' informing them of Messiah ' s birth.

We also spent some time with Yusuf and his friends in their co-op of nearly sixty Arab Christian families who now carve olive wood, and produce other arts and crafts for their livelihood. We were glad to do all our Christmas shopping there, and contribute something to their well-being.

We heard first hand how hard it has been for them, once "The Wall" was erected, abruptly cutting them off from family and friends in Jerusalem, as well as their jobs. Very few people are allowed through the check point, and the guards gave Dave and I a good long hard look before they waved us through.

We headed on from there back to Jerusalem and completed our day at the Garden Tomb. This is a different site than the more traditional Church of the Holy Sepulchre. A couple hundred years ago two reverends / archeologists saw what they were convinced was a skull motif in a low hill. The looked for and found an empty tomb nearby, chiseled into the living rock and were sure they'd discovered Golgotha and Joseph of Aremathae's tomb.

It was a sweet place and we're glad we went.